How to make my Chalk Lines Skirt

This is one of my favorite skirts (and my sister’s favorite to borrow). It’s not the quickest sewing project, since you have to sew each seam twice – once to put in the piping and again to actually make the seam – but it’s worth the extra effort. These are the pattern pieces:

To add piping to a seam, first sew the piping to one side, placing it on the right side of the fabric with the decorative bit facing in. Sew along the edge of the raised part – sewing on the raised part looks fine, and sewing too far back does not, so error on the side of keeping too close. Next, pin the second piece of fabric in place with the right sides together. Sew along the seam, catching the piping in it. You can feel where the piping is under the fabric – use this to line up the seam so you sew as close to the raised part as possible. You may need to sew over some parts again if it looks uneven.

First sew together the bottom and middle pieces of the side panel. Next add the pockets and sew the piping to the sides. Sew the front and back to the sides, then add the piping to the top and sew on the waist band. Finally, add the zipper to the back and hem the bottom.

To add the pockets, sew the piping to the top of the pocket, then add the top of the lining. fold the lining back and top stitch so this edge lies flat. Sew the lining of the pocket to the back of the pocket (the top piece of the side panel). Add the piping along the long side seams of the assembled side panel to hold all the pieces together. You can sew the pocket into this seam (I did) or leave it out.

To add an exposed zipper, finish the edges of the fabric so they won’t unravel by running a zigzag stitch along the edge. Place the zipper on top of the right side of the fabric so the fabric and the zipper overlap by ⅝ of an inch. Sew from the top of the zipper to the bottom ⅛ of an inch from the edge of the zipper. Repeat on the other side.

The piping stiffens the fabric so you need to add a facing to hem. Sew the facing to the bottom of the skirt. Turn under the edge of the facing, and carefully sew it to the inside of the skirt like you would an ordinary hem.

Edit: there are more photos of the process of making this skirt here.

This entry was posted in Sewing, Tutorials. Bookmark the permalink.

30 Responses to How to make my Chalk Lines Skirt

  1. Awnya says:

    Wow I absolutely LOVE this skirt! Thanks for putting up a pattern. I don’t think it’ll turn out as nearly as professional looking as yours but can’t wait to try it out :)

  2. Sarah Wilson says:

    Hey! I love this pattern! How did you measure the dimensions for the skirt pieces?

    • naomi says:

      Measure the front and back of your waist and hip/bottom and the length of the skirt. The top of the side pieces is a bit less than a third of the front waist. The front piece is a bit more than a third, so the three pieces add up to the total front waist measurement. The seams connecting the front and sides are more or less straight. The difference between the waist and hip measurement should mostly go into the side seams, which curve out until the total front measurement matches your hips. The top of each back piece is half the back waist measurement. The side seams of the side pieces should match the side seams of the back pieces. The back seam curves out until the total width of the piece is half the back hip/bottom measurement. The waistband is 1 1/2 inches wide and as long as your waist and the hem facing is three inches wide and long enough to go around the hem. Hope that makes sense!

  3. Linda says:

    Okay, so now I definitely have to get the Christmas present (a sewing machine!) out of the box – though I’m not sure if I’m to that skirt yet… Thanks for putting up the pattern and the inspiring pictures!

  4. EllenQ says:

    What a fantastic detail! I am sure I could adapt this to a pencil skirt pattern I already have. You are so inspiring.

  5. this is so lovely, and it is inspiring me for a dress for my daughter – love it! thank you for sharing

  6. Malory says:

    This is gorgeous! I love your taste and great tutorial!

  7. Jan says:

    I love this! I’m thinking it would be cute to do in denim and, instead of using piping, have the frayed denim edge exposed. Thanks for sharing!!

  8. Carolyn says:

    The pockets in the skirt are an excellent idea! Never enough pockets in ladies clothing.

  9. Alicia says:

    Great. Excellent. I like it.

  10. Beth says:

    This is adorable! Just fyi… if you use a zipper foot when sewing on piping, you can get close to the piping and eliminate a lot of re-do’s.

  11. Cruzmaribel Lara says:

    I love this tutorial, I already have a few projects that I want to integrate this piping to. I also am wanting to add a lining for this skirt that covers the inside from waist to hem with a really soft material. I will have to play with that idea and what I have on-hand. Thanks for taking the time to share your ideas, I am most grateful.

  12. Joanne says:

    This skirt is so lovely. I love love love love love it. And thanks for the tutorial.

  13. Katinka says:

    Is it possible to NOT have an exposed zipper? I just don’t like it so much, so will it be possible to just have the back pieces as ONE piece, and then just a zipper in the top? I’m relatively new to this, so i just have to ask :)

    • Naomi says:

      Sure. If you don’t want the zipper to show, I’d use an invisible zip. It only has to go down to the widest part of the skirt.

  14. Jessica says:

    I love the skirt. Thank you for posting the pattern sketch and instructions. There are no darts in the skirt so I assume you used a stretch fabric right? Would darts need to be added with a woven or do the panels provide the shape normally done with darts? Thanks!

  15. Ingrid says:

    3 year later and I’ve finally made your skirt! I love it! Thank you soooooo much. My work colleague wants me to make her the same!
    Photos of my version on my blog !

  16. Wow, that skirt is so cool! This inspires me to buy a sewing machine and start sewing :D

    xo Noor

  17. Satu says:

    Hi, thanks a lot for this tutorial, I got inspired by it and made my own version of this skirt. You can view it in my blog if you like :)

  18. funke says:

    Pls can u make a real paper drafting for this skirt. I’m a beginner. Thnx

  19. Marny CA says:

    This would also make an adorable apron!!

    Thinker – not Doer.

    This IS really lovely.

  20. georgia says:

    hey I really want to make this skirt but I’m confused on how to draw or cut out the pieces any help or tips?

  21. Nicole says:

    The binding really makes this skirt an eye catcher! A tip when working with binding: I first stitch the binding in place, just like you did, and then I pin the second layer on top, but then turn my work upside down for sewing, so the (underside of the) first stitching line is visible. If you then follow this line you are sure your your stitching is nicely in place. And use a zipper foot to get as close to the binding as possible…

  22. Rachel says:

    Hi, I was just wondering whether I’d be possible to emit the pockets?
    Love the design!

  23. iveren says:

    I simply love this skirt ,I can’t wait to have one of my own

  24. Anonymous says:

    Very striking! Thank you for sharing. My granddaughters would love this look!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

Protected by WP Anti Spam